Day 71, Year 2: Settling into Savusavu
Date: Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Weather: Sunny Day with Clouds Hanging Low Over Most of Vanua Levu
Location: Savusavu, Vanua Levu
It was July 4th here today and we put out a brand new American flag as our celebration. This is our third flag. Our first was used when it was given to us by friends at Shipyard Quarters back in Massachusetts and it made it to Panama. We were able to buy a new US flag there and that is the one we retired today. We bought the one that is currently flying when we were home in the US. Mark also started reading James Patterson’s “4th of July” today. So that is how we celebrated the 4th.
We started our morning by having coffee with Steve and Toya of Cheers at the Yacht Club. Steve and Toya are a young couple from Namibia, just north and west of South Africa. They are leaving here as soon as a rigging part arrives and heading south to islands off the east side of Viti Levu, and then on to Kadavu. Steve is a surfer, so I was able to tell him what we learned about surfing in some of the Kadavu passes. Steve and Toya are going home to Namibia for six-months to work during the South
Pacific summer, and if they decide to leave the boat here in Fiji, they will also be visiting the Lau Group if they can get a permit. We told them how we did it and gave them some information I have written about that. We learned that Steve has a diamond diving business back in Namibia. Evidently some of those precious stones travel down the rivers and into the ocean, and when they do, Steve’s divers are there to find them. I’d never heard of diving for diamonds before. Something new everyday.
While at the Yacht Club, we learned from Dave on La Vie that Savusavu Internet was down today and the guy who could fix it was out fishing, so we went to the Bosun’s Locker office to see if they had a connection. Unfortunately, there was just no internet today, so we weren’t able to call our daughter using Skype and so we could see that grand baby of ours. It has been more than a month since we have seen him via web cam and I’m definitely having withdrawal. We bought a phone card and called, but
a $10 card only gave us eleven minutes. We ran out of time before we said a proper goodbye, but we are hoping the internet will be back up and running in a day or so, and we will make the Skype call then. We had also told Marie on Ranger that we would get weather off the internet for her and send it via e-mail. Sorry, Marie. We’ll try again tomorrow. Ranger left Gau this morning and was heading to either Koro Island or another smaller island on the way to Savusavu. They should arrive here early
next week. We look forward to seeing them again.
While I was on the phone talking to Heather, Molly and Jeff of Kauila came walking by. Their boat is not here, so I was surprised to see them. They biked in from the Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort at the point. Their boat is anchored there and they encouraged us to come out as soon as we can to go snorkeling. Evidently there is a great variety of coral and fish, so as soon as Steve gets here, we will definitely head that way either by dinghy or by moving Windbird’s location. while talking to them,
we saw Camdeboo come sailing in. We first met Cambell and Jennifer and their two teenaged daughters out on Minerva Reef and then at Riverside Drive Marina in New Zealand. They have sold their boat and are returning to British Columbia so the girls can finish high school, but they have until August 7 before the new owners take possession. They have visitors aboard, but we will find time to talk with them before we leave. It is always great to see cruising friends that we haven’t seen for awhile.
I sometimes wonder if we will keep in touch with many of these friends once we are all back home.
We moved the boat today to a Copra Shed Marina mooring. This mooring is at the mouth of the creek instead of being tucked back in. It is definitely a little livlier out here, especially at night. There are loads of local fishing boats that hang very close to us, probably because we are right on the ledge between deep water and the reef surrounding the little island of Nawi. The fishermen have boom boxes and some of the women are obviously having a “very” good time–lots of talking and laughter.
This was the only mooring available, but we might see if something opens up closer to where we were yesterday. I liked the quiet there. The Lonely Planet says Savusavu is “lively and exciting.” Obviously the night fishing is lively, but we don’t sense that in the town itself. For us it has a bit of the “down and out” feel to it, but then we have been out in pristine islands for a month. This is probably just closer to reality.
For our cruising friends who might read this, here’s the skinny on Savusavu. Market days are Wednesday before 10 AM and Saturday until 1 PM. Saturday is the best with everything from fresh prawns to exotic fruits and veggies available. Supposedly the lady with the best vegetables is just to the right when you enter the market from the street side. She has either a freezer or a refrigerator and that’s how you identify her. Friday is the day to go to the supermarkets as new supplies some in late
on Thursday. The Captain’s Cafe at the Yacht Club is a good low to mid-priced place to eat. The chef is married to Dolly, the young manager of the Copra Shed and as soon as she finishes her work in the office at 5 PM, she comes around the corner and serves as hostess at the cafe in the evenings. They are a really super friendly, hard working young couple, and the food is good. Cruisers tell us that the Bula Re Cafe is also a great place to eat, although a little more pricey. On Wednesday nights
the Bula Re has a traditional Fijian feast cooked in a lovo or earth oven and on Thursday nights they have a Cruiser Night where they serve a three-course meal with novel Fijian dishes for just $12 per person. Reservations for either Wednesday or Thursday night are recommeneded. According to other cruisers, the best deal is town is the Sea View Cafe, next to Bosun’s Locker. They have good food at very low prices, although nothing fancy. Information on what is happening in Savusavu is broadcasted
daily by Curly at 8:30 AM. If you monitor channel 16, just a couple of minutes before he will come on and announce the channel to move to for info–usually channel 14. That’s about what I know about Savusavu at this point. Boats seem to come and go constantly. Some of the boats that are currently moored here are Red Sky, Rise and Shine, Scheherazade, La Vie, Rare Earth, and Two by Sea. There are about 30 boats here right now and almost all the moorings are taken. But daily, boats come and go,
so there seems to always be room for more.
 |
| 070704 Day 71 Vanua Levu, Fiji–July 4th in Savusavu |
