Day 188, Year 1: The Wind is Gone–Day 2

Day 188, Year 1: The Wind is Gone–Day 2
Date: Sunday, April 23, 2006
Weather: Clear Day, Becoming Overcast in Late Afternoon
Water Surface Temperature: 76 degrees F
Latitude: 02 degrees 05 minutes S
Longitude: 093 degrees 19 minutes W
Location: Passage from Galapagos to the Marquesas, Day 2
Miles to Go: 2861 (126 miles last 24 hours)

We are still motoring. We had a great sail yesterday afternoon which was unexpected, and then it was back to the typical doldrums. We have had 5 to 8 knots out of the east for the past 24 hours. As I am writing this log, the wind is beginning to increase, so maybe we will get to sail tonight. We are prepared to motor for the first four to five days, but any wind that will save the precious fuel is most welcome. Our speed is averaging about 5.3 knots overall, which seems slow for us as we have had some great currents to boost our speed by as much as two knots on some previous passages. The charts show a current going our way just a little south of where we are so we may pick it up tomorrow. Other boats on the net are finding it strange that there has been a counter current where they were expecting a positive current. And the winds have been unusual for trade wind sailing. Some are getting no wind and others experience 25 to 35 knots. We have heard some boats wonder if this is going to be an El Nino year. Let’s hope not.

We checked in with the Pacific Cruisers Net last night and we were able to talk to Doug of Windcastle. He has a torn headsail. He is having to sail with it rolled up 30 per cent, but he is still making about 4.5 knots on average. He and Sylvie are over the halfway point and both are enjoying the passage. This morning we checked into the net that is being run by the few boats that left the Galapagos this past week. Aqua Magic is part of that net. They, along with another British boat named Shine, are three days ahead of us and seem to be doing well. The other boats that are within a day or two of us are Scottie from Scotland, Aventura from England, Islay from Turkey, Shoestring, Minaret, and Gdansk (not sure of home ports). We have met Derek and Glenda on Scotty and Mary and Chris of Aventura, but we don’t know the other cruisers. It will be great fun to meet them when we reach the Marquesas. Today Beam Muir and Quantum Leap left Isabella and joined the net, so they are just one day behind us. We are in good company and it is comforting to know that there are others out here with us.

Today was way too busy, but as always one thing led to another. I got up at 0600 and did the early morning watch while Mark slept. I checked into the 0800 net out of Panama to get the weather report. Once Mark was up, I started to fix breakfast. I was making an omelet with onions and peppers, but when I went to get a pepper, I found one that had gone bad. That meant cleaning out the whole veggie bin and by that time it was 1000 and time for the radio net of cruisers headed our way. After listening to that, I did manage to get breakfast. We read for a while and then started our daily chores. I got out the cleaner and UV protectorant for the dinghy and was about to head to the front of the boat to do that job when I heard the fishing reel whirring away. We caught a skipjack tuna about 28 inches long. This was great, but it does make a mess of the back deck and the clean up process takes a while. Obviously we are not very good at this yet as we were both a mess as well. After cleaning the fish, we needed to take showers. And when we take showers, I use the shower water to wash clothes. Being on a long passage and not wanting to waste a drop of water, I did the laundry which was not on the agenda for the day and then finally in mid-afternoon got to the dinghy cleaning job. This is how you pass the time out here. It seems that there is always something that needs to be done.

So all is going well. We will have fresh tuna for dinner tonight with mashed potatoes and fresh broccoli. And I’m thinking Bananas Foster would be a great dessert.

Note: I just finished this log and was getting ready to go downstairs to send it when a helicopter started circling the boat. I’m thinking, “What is a helicopter doing out here and why is it circling my boat.” There were two guys in the chopper and it circled three times and on the fourth pass I decided to wave and give the thumbs up sign. It seems that is all they wanted as they returned the thumbs up, smiled (they were very close) and headed east. The ID numbers on the helicopter were HP 1493. Mark got on the VHF and they indicated they were from the Galapagos. We couldn’t understand anything else. The only other signs of human life we have seen in the past 24 hours have been three fishing boats, so I am assuming the helicopter monitors fishing out here. Seems like a long way out for that, but not sure why else they would be here.

Day 187, Year 1: Off to the Marquesas—Day 1

Day 187, Year 1: Off to the Marquesas—Day 1
Date: Saturday, April 22, 2006
Weather: Winds E 15, Calm Seas
Daytime Temperature: 76 degrees F; Overcast, Clearing in the PM
Water Surface Temperature: 76 degrees F
Location: Passage from Galapagos to the Marquesas, Day 1
Miles to Go: 2987

We are underway and I’m not sure how to feel. We are already out of sight of land and will not see land again for about 25 days. That seems like a very long time, but I know that once we get into the passage, the time will go quickly. On this first day, however, I feel a bit apprehensive not knowing what to expect. Right now we are sailing along at 5 knots with about 15 knots of wind from the east, off our port quarter. Our course is 230 degrees which takes us basically southwest and we have about a six foot gentle swell. It would be fantastic if this could continue all the way to the Marquesas, but we know that is asking way too much. Our day did not start this way. We had only 5 knots of wind and had to motor sail until about two hours ago. We will continue on this course to about 7 degrees S, and then we will turn to the west and have the tradewinds behind us. Right now the trades are running ESE 15 to 25 knots in that area. But we won’t be there for a number of days, so we will just take one day at a time. And what we have right now is fantastic.

We had a great evening with friends at the Club Nautico last night. The Club Nautico is just a thatch roof on the beach. There is a bar and some tables and chairs under the covered area. Not fancy, but a great place to get together with fellow sailors. We were with Tom, Bette Lee, and Bob from Quantum Leap, Randy and Sherri of Procyon, Arni and Cam and their daughters Molly and Nancy of Jade out of Hong Kong, and Felix and Monica of Makani from Germany. Quantum Leap will be leaving the Galapagos in the morning and will be about a day behind us. We both plan to arrive in Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas, so we will see them again soon. We will also probably see Jade and Makani again in the Marquesas as well, but we don’t expect to see Randy and Sherri again until Tonga. They are flying home from Tahiti in August for a daughter’s wedding which means that they will be moving much slower than the rest of us through French Polynesia. We have really enjoyed getting to know them and do hope to meet in Tonga and sail to New Zealand at about the same time. We have also enjoyed getting to know Cam and Arni this week. Their daughter Molly is seven and Nancy is five. What a delight to watch these two in action. Molly is a very mature seven year-old and when I asked her she would be in second grade at home, she replied, “Oh no, I’m a first grader.” She speaks both Chinese and English fluently and was showing off her math skills to Tom last night. I asked her if she could multiply and she replied that she could only do that the Chinese way. Her comment was, “Much easier than the American way.”

Right this minute, I am sitting in the cockpit watching the largest fish we have ever seen jump high out of the water. They look like tuna but porpoise through the water like dolphins. And then all a sudden one will jump about five feet out of the water. We should have the fishing line out, but we are not sure what we would do with a fish this large. We have also been bird watching during the day. At first we were seeing groups of Blue-footed Boobies fly by and would see a lone Nazca Booby sitting on the water here and there. Now, later in the day, we are seeing groups of Nazca Boobies fly by, as well as small Galapagos Petrels. We will miss the birds of the Galapagos.

I will try to send my daily logs in the late afternoon on this voyage. Of course, late afternoon for us will change as we sail through the time zones. I think we go through six zones before we reach the Marquesas. I will try to note in the logs each day our time and Eastern Daylight Time. Right now we are still on Galapagos time which is two hours earlier than EDT.

It is time to fix dinner and start the evening watches. And unfortunately the wind is dying. We might be back to motoring for the night, but we did have a wonderful afternoon sail. And just for the record, we are currently sailing through something that looks like Sargasso weed. A first I thought it was Red Tide as the water looked reddish, but on closer observation, I think the red color was just the reflection of the late afternoon sun. Didn’t expect to see Sargasso weed out here, but I am sure there are many things that we will see that I didn’t anticipate.