by Judy Handley | Jan 18, 2009 | Sailing Logs Year 4, Thailand |
Day 88, Year 4: Breaking and Entering the Underworld
Date: Sunday, January 18, 2009
Weather: Northeast Monsoon Winds
Latitude: 08 degrees 00.624 minutes N
Longitude: 098 degrees 49.929 minutes E
Location: Railay Beach, Krabi Province, Thailand
I’ll get to the breaking and entering in a bit, but I will just say that it had something to do with a cave. But before that event we all piled in the dinghy and went into Ao Nang to buy tomatoes, bread, salami, eggs, and Huggies diapers. We were successful on all accounts except for the salami (Sam’s favorite snack), but it was a bit of an Easter Egg hunt to find things. The first little mini-mart had bread and Huggies. The second store was closed and would not open until much later in the morning, so we started looking for small stands that might have food for sale. We found one Thai pancake stand that would sell us eight eggs and six tomatoes. Mark and I had left Heather, Jed, and Sam at an open-air Starbucks while we were searching where Jed enjoyed a big cup of coffee. When we returned, Sam saw a purple tour bus that he desperately wanted to get on. He stood forlornly waving goodbye as the bus pulled away from the curb. But then he spotted the bright green mini-trucks with wood-slatted sides and covers over the top that serve as taxis here. They are called Tuk Tuks and we asked the driver to take us on a little tour of town. As we drove along, we saw little markets that had eggs sitting out front, so on the way back into town we stopped and bought a flat of eggs. Heather and Jed did some “window” shopping on the way back to the beach, but not many things were open so early in the morning. We decided that they would return in the evening to do the shopping so we could move on
to Railay Beach for a day of fun in the sun. We moved Windbird the mile closer to Railay. It was only 10:30 by this time, but Sam was ready for a nap. It had been a big day already.
After naps, we went to shore for lunch and beach time. We found a nice shady spot on one end of the beach where Sam played and found a girlfriend–a twenty-something Thai woman named Kune. She played with Sam for over an hour running down to the water with him and then back to dig in the sand. While Heather, Jed, Sam, and Kune played on the beach, Mark and I went snorkeling. We enjoyed the time in the water but there was not much to see below. They real treat with this snorkel was stopping to look up at the towering limestone karst above it. We did find one cave to explore and I saw one porcupine blowfish but that was it. When we picked up our beach things to go for a walk across the island to Diamond Cave there were lots of hugs and kisses as Sam and Kune parted. We left our beach and snorkeling gear in the dinghy and followed the path across the island. Sam looked so adorable in his little dark blue and bright green UV sunsuit and new blue Crocs with those blonde curls blowing in the breeze. We got to the cave but there was no one in the ranger hut to take our money. That also meant the lights in the cave were not on. I found a local woman who came and tried to help but she seemed to be saying that without the ranger there could be lights. We were all so disappointed, so this is when we took things into our own hands. Mark followed the cable from the cave and saw that it went into the ranger’s room, but the door was locked. Then we discovered a grated-window covered with a poster beside the door. Jed’s arm was long enough to reach through and turn the door knob and sure enough the door opened. Mark went in and found the switch and we were ready to enter the cave. Sam loved making sounds that would echo through the cave and making us all a bit nervous by insisting that he hold on to the hand rail and walk on the rough boardwalk on his own. Heather had to insist that he hold her hand but he did make it successfully all the way through. This cave has some very impressive stalactites and some beautiful golden formations that glitter like diamonds in the light. While we were in the cave, other people followed which put a little hitch in our plan to get out of the cave, relock the ranger’s door, and quietly escape the scene of the crime. Luckily, only four other people entered, so we just waited outside until they left and then covered our tracks. We left the required fee on a table on the inside of the grated-window. I’m sure the ranger will wonder how and why the money appeared. But we left no fingerprints, so I don’t think we’ll be spending time in a Thai prison.
It was almost 5 pm when we walked back to East Railay Beach so we stopped for a snack of spring rolls. Mr. Sam can get quite grouchy when hungry, so snacking often avoids the meltdowns. Mark and I took Sam out on the beach while Heather and Jed did a little more shopping. Sam jumped in a kayak sitting on the beach and tried rowing through the sand. Then he stood and watched with great admiration a soccer game on the beach. Our dinghy was sitting right next to the goal net, so we convinced him to stand on the far side of the dinghy and watch to keep from getting hit by the ball. Robert and Tina of Shirena arrived in the Railay anchorage and came to shore. As the sun was setting, Heather, Jed, and Sam played in the water and we talked with Robert and Tina. We were supposed to be heading back to Ao Nang for a nighttime shopping trip, but instead we decided to go back to Windbird and clean up a bit and come back to shore to have dinner with Robert and Tina.
The two beach-side restaurants look pretty much identical, but we chose the one with white table cloths. It was a good choice. They were having a Sunday night buffet that we didn’t choose to afford, but the fruit carvings were real pieces of art. We ordered ala carte and had great service. We didn’t know dinner came with entertainment, so we were pleasantly surprised by beautiful Thai dancers. Sam loved this and actually took Heather by the hand and insisted that she get on stage with him to dance when audience members were invited up. The evening ended with some amazing fire dancing on the beach. What a day!
Plans for tomorrow changed somewhat as we never made it to Ao Phra Nang Beach and Heather and Jed never made it back to Ao Nang for more shopping. So tomorrow we will visit the beach by dinghy in the morning, move Windbird back to Ao Nang for shopping, and then head as far north as we can get before dark. There are not many days left and much to see, so we will have to make some tough choices. But then we have seen so much already. Sailing in this part of Thailand truly is deliciously beautiful.
by Judy Handley | Jan 17, 2009 | Sailing Logs Year 4, Thailand |
Day 87, Year 4: One Paradise Lost, Another Awaiting Discovery
Date: Saturday, January 17, 2009
Weather: Northeast Monsoon Still in Full Swing
Latitude: 08 degrees 01.455 minutes N
Longitude: 098 degrees 49.255 minutes E
Location: Ao Nang, Krabi Province, Thailand
We are just having the most incredibly wonderful time with Heather, Jed, and Sam. Sam continues to be a real sailor and last night he slept for eleven straight hours with just one little cry for Mama at 11 pm. Heather and Jed got more sleep last night than they have since Sam was born. He normally gets up two or three, sometimes four times during the night, so Heather and Jed are really enjoying this little reprieve. We are also traveling among some of the world’s most beautiful islands. So
we have a happy “almost” two year-old, two happy parents, and two happy grandparents. Life is good.
The anchorage where we spent last night between Ko Dam Hok and Ko Dam Khwan was just beautiful. When we got up this morning, low tide was approaching and the sand bar that connects the small island we were using as our beach was suddenly connected to Ko Dam Khwan by a sandbar. After eating a huge breakfast, we went over to the small island and walked across the sandbar to the other island. There were long tails by the dozens and hundreds of people on a little island that only yesterday afternoon had only a few tourists. So we just decided to enjoy the beauty and ignore the people and pretty soon most of them were gone. It appeared that coming to the island for the low tide event was the spectacle and once the tide was again rising, the crowds of people disappeared. Heather and Jed went for a long snorkel while Mark, Sam, and I played on the beach. Just as yesterday, the Thai tourists all stopped to say hello to Sam, to kiss him, to photograph him, and to try and pick him up. I think he was beginning to feel a bit like a rock star with so many people just trying to touch him. I haven’t seen this happening to other children, so maybe it is just his age or maybe he really is the most beautiful grand baby in the world until the new grandchildren arrive. Then we will have the three most beautiful grandchildren in the world.
In the late afternoon we left our idealistic anchorage and headed over to Ao Nang on the mainland. We spent Christmas Day here with Kevin and Claire and decided to come here to have dinner and then move a mile south to Railay Beach for tomorrow and tomorrow night. We had a great dinner in Ao Nang and did a little shopping. We might go back into town tomorrow morning to do a little food and souvenir shopping and then make our move to Railay. Whether or not it ends up being as beautiful as the last anchorage, it is certainly another slice of paradise. So we just move from one tropical paradise to another. Not a bad way to travel.
by Judy Handley | Jan 16, 2009 | Sailing Logs Year 4, Thailand |
Day 86, Year 4: Paradise Found
Date: Friday, January 16, 2009
Weather: Beautiful, Still with Very Strong Winds
Latitude: 07 degrees 57.541 minutes N
Longitude: 098 degrees 48.447 minutes E
Location: Between Ko Dam Khwan & Ko Dam Hok, Thailand
What a special anchorage we found today. We are anchored between two beautiful islands with limestone cliffs that rise straight out of the sea and between the two there is a tiny little island that is the perfect day spot for beach activities. At low tide there is a sand bar that connects the tiny island to the Ko Dam Khwan, the southern island in the group. This island is also called Chicken Head as there is a rock formation on the southern tip that does indeed look like a chicken’s head and neck. It was high tide when we arrived and we took the dinghy to the small island that had a bit of beach exposed. The sand is white and the surrounding waters are that beautiful, clear turquoise color that you only get when the sand is really white. Sam played for almost four hours on the beach, much of the time under an umbrella held by either Oma or Mama. We all took turns snorkeling and after a couple of tries in different places, Heather and Jed found a beautiful reef between the two main islands and “requires” another day of exploration. Tomorrow morning we will look at our schedule and see if it is possible for us to stay here one more day. It truly is magnificently beautiful and the underwater world here is begging us to explore. Today I saw more parrotfish feeding in one area than I have ever seen before. Often we see small fish have a feeding frenzy, but we have never before seen parrotfish doing this. Our friends, Tina and Robert of Shirena, also arrived here this afternoon and they also plan to stay another day or so.
The challenging part of the day was getting here. We motored into 20 knots of wind right on the nose with choppy seas. After a couple of hours of this, we finally concluded that Sam really doesn’t get sea sick. He was a real trouper as we hobby-horsed our way here. It’s a good thing, because the northeast monsoon winds are not going to subside. When we leave here we will have to head straight into the wind to get to the Krabi area, but after things should get a bit better as we will be heading northwest and won’t have the wind directly on the nose.
So for tonight we are tucked into a beautiful spot and the anchorage is calm even though the winds continue to blow. All of us are really enjoying our time island hopping in Thailand’s Phang Nga Bay.
by Judy Handley | Jan 15, 2009 | Sailing Logs Year 4, Thailand |
Day 85, Year 4: It Doesn’t Get Better Than This
Date: Thursday, January 15, 2009
Weather: Beautiful, Still with Very Strong Winds
Location: Ton Sai Bay, Ko Phi Phi Don, Thailand
We had a wonderful day, and as grandparents, it just doesn’t get better than this. Sam really is a little sailor man, and he loves going out in the dinghy. And then he loves playing on the beach, so island hopping in Thailand is his perfect activity.
After I wrote last night’s log fearing that would be rocking and rolling all night again, the wind died down and we had a nice quiet night. Sam slept straight through until 4:00 a.m., but after that he really wasn’t interested in going back to sleep. But sleeping straight through until 4 am is a great improvement, so we’ll take it. We spent our early morning hours going to the beach so Sam could play. Mark stayed on the beach with Sam while Heather, Jed, and I snorkeled along the coast. We went quite a distance and I then said I would go back and get Mark, Sam, and the dinghy. Of course, I didn’t know how far the trip would be swimming against the currents, but I made it. We went to pick up Heather and Jed and then it was back to Windbird for naps before beginning our second explore of the day. This time we went to the town on Phi Phi Don. I guess “town” is a little misleading. Actually it is just a strip of hotels, restaurants, bars, and little shops. Again, Sam was fascinated with all the people and then sat happily on the beach and played while Heather and Jed walked around and did a little shopping. I love the fact that there are restaurants right on the beach so Sam could play in the sand while Oma and Granddad got a head start on Happy Hour. Sam chased mynah birds and loved learning to jump over the long tail anchor ropes on the beach. We all had dinner at the same restaurant and then walked further along the island path to see the sights. At night all of the little shops and restaurants are lit with hundreds of little lights and it really is quite pretty. As Sam would say, “Wow!”
Tomorrow morning we will start our trip to the mainland in the Krabi area. This is on the east side of Phang Nga Bay. We are going to make a stop at Bamboo Island to snorkel and then possibly spend the night at another beautiful, uninhabited island before going on to the coast tomorrow. Weather and time will determine whether or not we make the second stop.
by Judy Handley | Jan 14, 2009 | Sailing Logs Year 4, Thailand |
Day 84, Year 4: Rock and Roll in the Phi Phi’s
Date: Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Weather: Beautiful with Strange Winds
Latitude: 07 degrees 43.967 minutes N
Longitude: 098 degrees 46.238 minutes E
Location: Ton Sai Bay, Ko Phi Phi Don, Thailand
Phi Phi Le and Phi Phi Don are touted to be in the top three of the most beautiful islands in the world. And they are spectacular. But unlike our earlier visit where the anchorages were calm, last night we rocked and rolled all night long in Phi Phi Le. We spent the day there to enjoy the beautiful beach and to snorkel, but we headed for Phi Phi Don late in the day looking for a quieter anchorage. Unfortunately, we are still rocking and rolling here. This bay is supposed to be protected in all weather, so we are really not sure what is going on. We know it is windy and the seas are choppy, but why a west facing bay and a south facing bay would both be rocky and rolly in northeast winds has us a bit baffled. But regardless, we are managing to have a great time. And Sam slept better last night than he has since his arrival, so maybe he likes the rock and roll.
We awoke this morning to a beautiful day with clear blue skies. As soon as we ate breakfast, we all piled in the dinghy and went to the beach. Sam is always anxious to get to the beach so he can “build and destroy.” We build sand castles and he knocks them down. Phi Phi Le is an uninhabited island, but come 10 am, the tourists arrive in long boats and speed boats by the hundreds. When we first arrived, there were very few people on the beach. But before long, you could hardly move, so we escaped to a smaller beach to the east of the main one. Mark, Sam, and I played on that beach while Heather and Jed went for a snorkel, and then Mark and Sam got in the dinghy and I pulled them along to find Heather and Jed. Sam really enjoys watching people snorkel. He calls them people fish and he just sits patiently in the dinghy watching the activity. I continued to snorkel while pulling the dinghy once we found Heather and Jed and we went most of the way back to Windbird this way. After mid-day lunch and naps, we all got back in the dinghy and did another snorkel around the rocks close to Windbird. The snorkeling in Ao Maya Bay does not have beautiful coral, but it is always fascinating to see the fish. And snorkeling where you can look straight up to see the tops of the limestone karsts is just beautiful.
We will start our tomorrow here at Phi Phi Don by snorkeling off Monkey Beach and then we will go ashore for lunch. We have no plans beyond that, but I do think I’ll check out an internet cafe to see what is going on with the weather. We’re hoping to get in some more snorkeling before leaving here for the east coast of the mainland. There’s no way to express how wonderful it is to have Heather, Jed, and Sam aboard. Sam’s every move is fascinating to us and we are so enjoying getting reacquainted.
by Judy Handley | Jan 13, 2009 | Sailing Logs Year 4, Thailand |
Day 83, Year 4: A Bit of a Romp
Date: Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Weather: Beautiful Weather, but WINDY; 15-20 Knots/1 Meter Seas
Latitude: 07 degrees 40.868 minutes N
Longitude: 098 degrees 45.728 minutes E
Location: Ao Maya Bay, Ko Phi Phi Le, Thailand
What a wonderful day we have had, even though our sail from Ko Yao Yai to Ko Phi Phi Le was a bit more of a romp than we had anticipated. We had a delightfully smooth sail at the beginning of the day and Sam seemed to really enjoy it. He loves to take hold of the wheel and try to steer us but we have to keep telling him that “Otto” has control. That, of course, is the auto pilot. We had a second breakfast of pancakes with maple syrup and then Heather and Sam went below for a nap. That is when the romp started. We came out from behind Ko Yao Yai and the seas and the wind picked up just as we had to adjust our course that put us on a beam reach. Heather was trying to sleep in the v-berth but every time we would hit a bit wave, she would levitate at bit. Sam, on the other hand, was in the main cabin, and was having a smooth ride. Once Heather was assured that I would sit and watch Sam to make sure he was fine, she was able to get a bit of sleep. Jed was trying to sleep in the cockpit, but we had to keep working with the sails which interrupted his nap. The reason Heather and Jed both needed to nap is that Sam has been up and wide awake VERY early the past couple of days. He sits up in his sea berth and serenades up with happy songs-if there is such a thing as a happy song at time of the morning.
We arrived at Ko Phi Phi Le around 2:30 in the afternoon, had lunch, and then hopped in the dinghy to go to the beach. “The Beach” is a 1999 movie filmed here on this incredibly beautiful beach surrounded by steep limestone cliffs. Mark, Sam, and I sat on that beach this afternoon and started building a sand castle with moat while Heather and Jed took a walk on the beach and went for a swim. When they returned, Jed helped us complete the moat and Sam had a delightful time running about in the moat and scooping sand. Tomorrow we will snorkel here and explore some of the many overhangs and caves. We’ll have a little beach time with Sam and just enjoy this absolutely beautiful place. We are on a mooring at the entrance to the bay at the base of a limestone cliff that looks to be reaching for the sky. You couldn’t ask for a more dramatic place to sit on your boat.
Mark and I are just thoroughly enjoying having Heather, Jed, and Sam aboard. Sam keeps us all constantly entertained and has adapted to sea life quite easily. He loves watching other boats and has been a fantastic second captain on Windbird. This morning when we were picking up anchor at Ko Yao Yai, Heather was at the helm as we left the anchorage. I told her to increase the speed a bit, and Sam just beamed. The faster the better for this little guy!
