Day 133, Year 2: A Little Scare in a Tight Spot
Date: Tuesday, September 4, 2007
Weather: Repeat . . . Still Sunny and Still Windy
Latitude: 16 degrees 06.705 minutes
Longitude: 167 degrees 27.504 minutes
Location: Suaro Island, Port Stanley, Malekula, Vanuatu
Our travels from Banam Bay north to the Port Stanley area were “almost” uneventful, but not quite. We got an early start, pulling up anchor at 6:20 AM. This time were were prepared for the possible rough seas, but actually the rocking and rolling today was not bad. We had a downwind sail all the way. We first motored with a reefed main, but once we turned a corner, we rolled out the headsail and turned off the motor. We tried to sail wing and wing, but that didn’t work, we we lowered the main
and sailed with just the full headsail poled out. By 11 AM we were in the middle of the pass between two islands entering the Port Stanley area. We had lowered all sails and were motoring. The pass was almost a mile wide, but anytime you see turquoise water on both sides of you, it is time to watch very carefully. When we turned the key to start the engine, I was thinking about how reassuring it is to know that every time you turn that key, the engine is going to start. That got me to thinking
about David Laux back in Delaware who encouraged us to install the new Yanmar engine before starting our circumnavigation. Literally, at the very moment that I was thanking David in my mind, the engine just stopped running. I truly couldn’t believe it. I tried to start it, but the engine would just make little puttering sounds. It sounded like it wasn’t getting enough fuel, and we kept trying to start it to no avail. We were being pushed toward the reef on the port side by the current and wind,
so we quickly rolled out the headsail and I took the helm and turned us around to head back out to sea. Ranger was not far behind us, so they called to see what in the world we were doing. We explained that we were heading back out under sail until we could solve the engine/fuel problem. Naturally, the wind filled our headsail more than we certainly needed and we were flying back out to sea. If there is one thing you can count on out here, it is wind that is elusive When you really need it.
But when you are off guard or don’t really want to fly like the wind, it is always there with it’s full force. I stayed at the helm while Mark worked on the problem. The fuel tank we were using today was low, but certainly not empty. But because it was low, we assumed that the “gunk” that accumulates at the bottom of a fuel tank had gotten stirred up with our rocking and rolling and had blocked the fuel line or clogged the filter. Mark changed the filter and had me try to start the engine again,
and again, and again. Still just puttering noises. Mark went back down and used the axillary electric fuel pump to prime the engine and hopefully push out any air that had gotten into the lines when the first tank had been clogged. I tried to start the engine again, and this time with a little coaxing it worked. Whew! Again, we had to send thanks to David Laux. It was he who insisted that we install the axillary fuel pump. We did and hadn’t used it until sometime in Fiji. When we tried to
use it to move fuel from one tank to another, we found it leaked. Just before leaving Fiji we replaced the pump and today we were certainly glad that we had. So once again, thanks to our friend David. We think of you often.
By the time we turned around and got back to the pass, Ranger was attempting to anchor. They reported that the anchorage they had chosen was more exposed than they hoped and they didn’t like the close proximity of the coral heads. We decided to try a different anchorage behind an uninhabited island. It is a lovely spot and with a little work, we got the anchor to hold. Actually, Ranger decided to come join us, but after doing so they reported that the protection in their first anchorage was really
better. This one just doesn’t have the threatening coral heads, and that allows one to rest more easily. Scot Free II, Arctic Fox, and the four boats from Australia and New Zealand that sailed here on Sunday are nowhere to be found. We feel safe in the 15 knot winds we are having, but they were having almost 30 knots, so we assume they escaped to somewhere north of here.
As soon as we arrived, a young man and his nine-year old son came by in their outrigger to say hello and see if we wanted any bananas. We have more green bananas than we want, so we declined, but I did take one of his snake beans. This looks like a long striped cucumber, but it is a squash. He wanted “lollies” (lollipops) in trade, but we have none. The closest we could come was a couple of cans of Coke. When I asked the little boy his age, his father responded and then asked how old we are.
We told him and he just stared at us. He said he was twenty-four and I’m sure he thought we were ancient.
The water is warm and inviting here, so I just have to dive in to explore the anchorage underwater. As reported in the cruising guide, the coral is underdeveloped and not great. But I did manage to find my anemonefish family for the day, lots of Picassofish, and tiny little Saddled Butterflyfish. Always when I see baby fish, I think of our grand baby Sam. Hopefully someday I can share my underwater stories with him.
 |
| 070904 Day 133 Malekula, Vanuatu–Arrival in Port Stanley |
