Day 275: Happy Birthday to Michael Stuart
Date and Time: Thursday, July 20, 2006, 2200 Tahiti Time
Weather: Sun Mixed with Clouds

Early this morning, Mark went to shore and rented a car. When he returned, we were getting ready to head for shore when the guy who had helped us tie up here when we arrived hailed us from shore. He was just dropping by to see how we were doing and insisted on getting his dinghy and helping me get to shore. Since this was my first trip in, it took a little exploring and planning, but we found the just right place and Richie named it “Jud’s Landing.” I can tell that I’m going to like this guy!

Once I got to shore, off we went to the outpatient clinic at the hospital. My highest hopes were that the cast could be removed today and that I would be back to normal, but I suspected that would not really be the case. When the doctor asked me very diplomatically how “young” I am, I got the point that because of age things don’t heal as quickly and that I was going to be stuck with this cast a little longer. The x-rays show that the bone is still aligned and should be healing properly. I’m to go back next Friday and if all still looks okay, he will remove the cast in such a way that I can still use it if needed on the passage to Samoa. He can basically cut it in half and it can be reapplied using ace bandages to hold it together. If it is removed on Friday, I still will not be able to put all of my weight on it for another two weeks, but that is progress.

The first doctor that I saw today was on duty just checking in patients and writing orders for what needed to be done. She immediately asked if we would be sailing to Samoa next. Most people would not know to ask that, so we inquired and she said she is originally from Samoa (what she calls the “real” Samoa, not American Samoa). Her father is a doctor and went to school at Stanford in California and she is very familiar with the US. She has two brothers that live on the west coast and she works for the World Health Organization and moves from place to place in the South Pacific. She convinced me that I need to go to the hospital in Apia on the island of Upolu in the Samoas for rehab and that we should spend extra time exploring the other Samoan islands. This is something we were already planning to do, but it was fun talking with her and learning some of the details of how things have changed there in the last 40 years. Mark lived in America Samoa for two years from 1967 to 1969 and visited some of the other Samoan islands. I know he is looking forward to the return and he did enjoy talking with the doctor this morning about some of their common knowledge of the area.

We left the hospital and started our drive around the west side of the island. There are lots of resorts, but they all fit nicely into the landscape. The island is beautiful with lush, green mountains, but the lagoon is very shallow. It has turquoise waters, but not the brilliant turquoise found in Bora Bora. We rounded the southwest corner, drove along the southern coast, and then headed back up the east coast. We stopped at Kura’s Kabanas to visit with the Stuarts and they graciously invited us to lunch. During lunch we discovered that today is Michael’s birthday and we made the decision to celebrate this over dinner. For lunch, we grilled out in the kabana by the water and then the gang put a plastic bag on my leg, hauled me into one of the kayaks, and started walking me across the lagoon. The lagoon is so shallow that you can walk across to the motus. Where fallen trees have embedded themselves in the lagoon, you can just look down and watch the fish. Incredible! The motus across the lagoon have beautiful beaches and it was simply delightful to be pulled through the water and explore. Mark, Garrett, and Michael picked up some of the numerous sea cucumbers and had squirting contests. All Linda and I could think is that “boys will be boys”. But all in all, it was a very relaxing and beautiful afternoon.

We all then piled into the rental car and started looking for a place to have a birthday dinner for Michael. We checked out a few places, and ended at the Portofino. This is an Italian restaurant owned and managed by a couple who moved here from Canada. It was a very nice evening with good food. We didn’t have desert, however, so we will do this part of the birthday ritual once Michael moves aboard Windbird on Saturday. So happy birthday, Michael.

Day 274: Contact with the Stuarts in Rarotonga!
Date and Time: Wednesday, July 19, 2006, 2100 Tahiti Time (and Cook Island time)
Weather: Partly Cloudy
Air and Water Temperature: 77 degrees F

Today started with Mark heading in to see the Harbor Master and me staying aboard doing the usual cleaning at the end of a passage. Mark also spent time checking into how to best get the medical care I will need for my leg and investigated car rental possibilities. He returned just after noon, and before we had a chance to eat lunch, I heard someone calling “Judy” from the dock. It was Linda Stuart along with her husband Michael and son Garrett. It was soooooo good to hear Linda’s voice and see friends from home.

The Stuarts stayed with us all afternoon and had dinner aboard Windbird before heading back to Kura’s Kabanas where they are staying. They came on the island bus and went home that way this evening. Tomorrow morning, Mark and I are renting a car to take me to the hospital for routine blood tests and x-rays and we will then venture around to the side of the island where the Stuarts are staying. Linda and I had to promise not to talk about Concord School District “work” today, but it was very difficult not to get back to that subject. We decided that we need to find something for Michael and Mark to do so we can catch up on all of the school district gossip. I did find out that Steve Rothenberg, Concord School District Technology Coordinator, is now an Assistant Principal at the high school. I doubt that Steve reads these logs, but I have to congratulate him anyway. This is a good move for Steve and a great move on the part of the Concord School District. I know he’ll do a wonderful job. Congratulations, Steve.

We are adjusting to the harbor here. The immediate harbor is not “pretty” but we are hoping for time to explore the area more fully.

Day 273: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga
Date and Time: Tuesday, July 18, 2006, 2000 Tahiti Time
Weather: Sunny and Blue Skies; Winds SW 15-20 knots
Air and Water Temperature: 77 degrees F
Latitude: 21 degrees 12 minutes South
Longitude: 159 degrees 47 minutes West

See Pictures Here

We made it! The last 24 hours were not easy, but we did arrive here safe and sound in the late afternoon. We sailed through a trough with driving rain, saw the skies clear, and then went into a cold front with more driving rain and changing winds. With 100 miles to go, we ended up with winds right on our nose and we had to drive the motor hard in order to get here today. We felt like we had been through it all, but then the crew from a boat that just arrived from Auckland, New Zealand came to help us anchor and told us their story. They went through much rougher weather than we have been through and have lots of repairs to do, so I guess we should be thankful that we made it through with no major problems. They said that it has been a very strange weather year in Australia and New Zealand. That certainly matches what has been happening in the whole of the South Pacific.

I feel a little bit like I am at the end of the earth here. Avatiu Harbor is the only harbor in the southern Cook Islands where a boat with a draft of more than six feet can anchor and it is a very, very tiny little harbor. I know I should be thrilled that there was a space for us here, but it is a bit of a shock compared to the beautiful anchorages we have been in for the past few months. This harbor is filled mostly with fishing boats and small cargo ships with just a small space for visiting sailboats. It is a working harbor and it is far from your picture of a perfect South Pacific anchorage. We will have to get out and explore the island a bit tomorrow to see what it is that draws people here. Sailors that have been here rave about the island, so we will have to find what it is that they are raving about.

Day 272: Transit from Raiatea to Rarotonga, Day 4
Date and Time: Monday, July 17, 2006, 1800 Tahiti Time
Weather: NNW 20-25 with Gusts to 35; Seas 6-8 feet; Overcast
Air Temperature: 79 degrees F
Water Temperature: 77 degrees F
Latitude: 20 degrees 43 minutes South
Longitude: 157 degrees 56 minutes West
Miles to Go: 106

Okay. I now believe there is no such thing as a “weather window”. Every time we hear that and take off, we have absolutely nasty weather. Last night on my 2230 to 0130 watch, we had pouring rain, lightening, and high winds. Things settled down with sunrise, but at about 1500 this afternoon, Mark went down for a nap. I read for a few minutes and then opened my computer to start this log. And then all of a sudden, all hell broke lose. Another squall . . . and this one was building steam. I did my best to handle things, but the commotion woke Mark and he came up to help. We had to bring in the headsail and let out the main sheet. We were being slammed with rain and strong winds and no sail change is easy in that kind of weather. Things have settled down again and hopefully he can get a little sleep before his watch starts at 1900.

Everyday the weather reports from New Zealand change. Of course, that is because the weather changes daily. Yesterday it looked like we would go through the front and come out on the other side with very little wind, and a good chance to get into the harbor in Rarotonga. This morning things got much more complicated. The low headed south but is dragging a cold front with it. That cold front is going to cause north winds to persist in the Rarotonga area until maybe Wednesday. So the advice this morning was to get as close to Rarotonga as we can and then hove to (just stop in the water) and wait for the front to pass. You just can’t enter the Rarotonga harbor with strong north winds, so you have to wait. If, and that is a very big IF, the cold front does pass sometime between now and Wednesday, we will then be able to head in.

So, it is all about the weather. The boats back in Bora Bora (Endangered Species being one of those) that were planning to leave to head this way have stayed put and will wait for the next ‘window”. My thought on that is that this year “windows” just don’t exist. I’m really not sure what is happening, and maybe this kind of weather is normal here, but that is not what we have read. Something seems amiss, just not sure what. The bottom line is that all is well onboard. We are getting rest and Mark is working hard to make sure we are eating well. Thank goodness we had some things in the freezer ready to pull out and heat up. In this kind of weather, cooking is truly arduous, and just not possible on one leg.

We’ll probably reach Rarotonga tomorrow afternoon and if the weather is still unsettled, we will heave to about 20 miles off. Hopefully, we will be able to make landfall on Wednesday.

Day 271: Transit from Raiatea to Rarotonga, Day 3
Date and Time: Sunday, July 16, 2006, 1800 Tahiti Time
Weather: E 25-35; Seas 10-12 feet; Blue Skies and Sunny
Air and Water Temperature: 77 degrees F (cooling down)
Latitude: 19 degrees 32 minutes South
Longitude: 155 degrees 55 minutes West
Miles to Go: 233

As I predicted, last night was boisterous. The morning light always seems to calm the waters, but as the day progressed, so did the wind and the waves. We are in what is called a “squash zone”. There is a strong ridge of high pressure to our east and a trough associated with a low pressure system moving toward us from the west. The low was supposed to move SE, but it didn’t. As we go further southwest our winds should start clocking to the north and then to the northwest. And once we go through the weather system, the winds will drop to almost nothing. Right now, it doesn’t look like that will happen until late tomorrow. We can’t enter the only harbor on the island of Rarotonga when there are north winds, so we sure hope we are through this by the time we arrive there on Tuesday morning.

We have adjusted our course a little to the south so that the strong winds are behind us. We rock and roll a bit, but it has been very comfortable. Moving about for me is not easy, but I am hanging in there.

I think I mentioned in an earlier log that our destination, Rarotonga, is in the Cook Islands. Captain Cook never set foot on Rarotonga, but he did visit Atiu, just north of Rarotonga, and called the islands “detached parts of the earth”. The Pitcairn-bound ship, Bounty, is thought to be the first European visitor to Rarotonga in 1779. The mutineers brought the first orange tree seeds to this part of the world. Rarotonga is a high island and is sometimes compared to Moorea in the Society Islands, although it is only half the size. It is only 32 kilometers all the way around. Most of the islanders speak English, as well as their form of Polynesian. They have a relationship with New Zealand and NZ currency is used there. We have much to learn about this island and can’t wait to start exploring. We know the local greeting is kia orana (may you live on), thank you is meitaki (may-ee-tock-ee), cheers! is kia manuia! (kee-uh mon-wee-ah), and goodbye is aere ra (ah-ay-ray rah).

Day 270: Transit from Raiatea to Rarotonga, Day 2
Date and Time: Saturday, July 15, 2006, 1800 Tahiti Time
Weather: ESE Tradewinds 18-20 During the Day, Blue Skies with Puffy White Clouds
Latitude: 18 degrees 07 minutes
Longitude: 154 degrees 01 minutes
Miles to Go: 373 (out of 550 total)

The ocean has a personality like a very moody person. It can sometimes be peaceful and placid, and then can change quickly to an angry sea. Even with all of the weather information you receive, it is very difficult to know just what a passage will be like. Last night was lumpy with confused seas throwing us this way and that-not what we expected. As the sun rose this morning, however, the seas and winds calmed down a bit and we have had a delightful day. We have had 18 to 20 knot winds on a broad reach and the seas have rolled comfortably under aft port side of the boat and out the forward starboard side. It is a bit like a dance. Unfortunately, our moody sea is deciding to become rowdy again at the end of the day. We will probably have another boisterous night, but at least we are making good time toward our destination. I am finding moving about a bit challenging with this cast on my leg, but so far, so good. Unfortunately, Mark is left with most of the sailing responsibilities as well as providing the meals. Balancing on one foot in rolly seas is not my expertise, so I have to do most things from a sitting position. He is doing a great job and might decide that single-handing is easier than he thought. Could I lose my valuable position as first mate?

Last night when I was on watch, I was so grateful that the auto pilot is repaired. I could sit in place and use our remote control device to adjust direction. In these seas, it is impossible for me to stand at the helm. I tried this morning, just to get a compass reading, and immediately fell. Not something I will try again. But at least with the auto pilot and remote control, I can do my watches and keep the boat on track as the winds shift. Richard, the guy we first met via radio in Raiatea, was a wonderful help and we will be forever grateful.

As you travel around the world like this, there is no way to see and experience everything you would like. As we are sailing on from French Polynesia, I keep hearing the lyrics to a song, “We may never pass this way again.” Did we see everything we wanted? No. Did we have a wonderful experience? Yes. Do we have regrets? Not really. We are actually excited to be moving on to the see the next part of the world. Rarotonga, in the Cook Islands, is our next destination. It is a place I had really never heard of before planning this trip. And this comes from someone who started out as a history and geography teacher at the high school level. I think my “next career” when we return home will be to work with children to help them expand their knowledge of the small world we live in.

One last thing. We started this passage with no other boats going our way. We checked into the Net this morning, however, and found that Vol (pronounced Yawl) had started out yesterday from Bora Bora for Aitutaki, just north of Rarotonga. Also, Endangered Species checked in as starting out his morning from Bora Bora, but before the end of the Net, they reported that they had oil pressure problems and were returning to port. It was a bit lonely last night to think that no one else was out here with us, but thanks to the Net that is run by cruisers, we connected this morning. French Polynesia is a decision point. Some boats are headed through the north Cook Islands to Samoa, some are heading directly to Tonga, and a few are heading to the south Cook’s as we are. Many of the boats we have traveled with previously are still back in Tahiti. I guess we are just on the fast track. Some things never change.

Day 269: Transit from Raiatea to Rarotonga, Day 1
Date and Time: Friday, July 14, 2006, 1900 Tahiti Time
Weather: Squally Day
Latitude:
Longitude:
Miles to Go:

Well, we broke our cardinal rule of never starting a transit on a Friday, and here we are with weather that was not what the weatherman predicted. Somehow it didn’t dawn on us that today was Friday until I typed the date in this log. It’s not terrible weather out here by any means, but it is a little challenging. We had hoped for calm seas with this leg of mine in a cast, but you don’t always get what you wish for. If it doesn’t get any worse than this, I’ll be happy.

We have changed our sail pattern a few times today, but as night is settling in we are sailing in 20 to 25 knot winds on the beam with a double-reefed main and the staysail out. The winds were out of the southeast but are moving more and more east as the day progresses which could mean that the trades are settling in once again. We had to roll in the headsail as it was just too lumpy. We are able to be right on course with this current combination. I feel like we are moving through a front and we once we exit on the other side, the winds might subside some. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

We called Dr. Carlin of the World Clinic this morning to let him know about my broken leg and to give him the result of the blood tests and get his okay for the transit. We hadn’t called him previously as we were getting local care, but I wanted his take on the blood test results just to make sure all is well. Also, if there should be complications, he will be aware of the situation. He confirmed what we have been told at the hospital here-the blood tests are all in the normal range and we will continue with the daily blood thinner shots. Mark is getting quite skilled with a needle.

We said our goodbyes to the cruisers at the dock and took off around 10:30 this morning. We should arrive in Rarotonga on Tuesday or Wednesday. We called the Stuarts this afternoon and they are leaving in the morning. They will arrive in Rarotonga on Monday. They are staying at a place called Kura’s Kabana until Friday and will then move aboard the Windbird Resort. We can’t wait.

The French flag came down this afternoon. It is hard to believe that we are traveling on from French Polynesia after two wonderful months. We arrived in Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas on May 14 and left Raiatea in the Society Islands today on July 14. We didn’t get to do everything that we wanted, but we had an absolutely fabulous time. We carry with us so many wonderful memories.

Day 268: Life at the Dock in Raiatea
Date and Time: Thursday, July 13, 2006, 2000 Tahiti Time
Weather: Beautiful, Sunny Day

Today started off with Mark getting a haircut from Kathy on Po’oina roa as payment for the canvass work he did for them yesterday. She was a professional hairdresser back in California and did a great job.

Then Richard showed up with our autopilot – all repaired and ready to install. In less than half an hour Mark had it installed and we had tested it. Seems OK at the dock. Guess we’ll get a chance to test it under more realistic conditions tomorrow as we can now leave for Rarotonga. Just the possibility of leaving brought on a whole new list of tasks to be done. We had to check-out with the Gendarme, I needed to get new blood tests done to see if I am still OK, we needed to do some last minute grocery shopping, plus we had some cooking to do both to prepare meals for the passage and to have something to take to a dock party this evening. It was rush, rush, rush, but we got it all done.

At 1630 the crews of all the boats at the dock began to congregate just beside our boat. The decision was made to have in near our boat so Judy wouldn’t have far to walk. Everyone brought a contribution to the pot luck dinner and we ate heartily. The guys played botchi ball until we got a sudden downpour. Then it was a mad rush to close hatches, get umbrellas and shelter the food. Soon someone brought out a large beach canopy that provided protection for most of the gang. The rest stood around in groups under umbrellas. Shortly the rain had passed over. It certainly didn’t dampen our spirits or slow the merriment.

There are only a few more things to do to transform the boat from dockside living to passage making. And then we are off. I think we are both looking forward to doing a passage again, though this one may be a bit tougher with a leg in a cast. The weather window looks good and if that is confirmed in the morning weather report then it is off to Rarotonga!

Day 267: A Sunny Day in Raiatea
Date and Time: Wednesday, July 12, 2006, 2000 Tahiti Time
Weather: Beautiful, Sunny Day

We got our wish. We awoke to a blue, sunny sky. After a few days of clouds and rain, it was certainly a welcome relief. James on Cheyanne left around 9 AM headed for Bora Bora, and Don and Barbara on Lutana II left shortly thereafter, also headed to Bora Bora. That left just Jerry and Kathy of Po’oina roa on the dock with us, but that changed quickly as they day progressed. Right now the dock is totally full, all US boats from the Pacific Northwest with the exception of the big French catamaran, Sarabi, and another big charter catamaran, Raiatea out of Papeete. The US boats are White Swan out of Port Townsend, Washington, Capaz out of Portland, Oregon (2 young boys aboard), Moorea out of Seattle, Washington, Ohana Kai out of Port Orchard, Washington (2 young boys aboard), and Seacor (young single-hander from the US). We have met the folks on White Swan back in the Marquesas in Ua Pou, but have not met the other cruisers. Kelly and Kelly of Moorea came over this evening to say hello. They are a great young couple from Washington and we enjoyed our conversation with them. They are probably in their mid-thirties and will be returning to work once this trip is over. Tomorrow night we are going to have a dock party here so we can all get to know one another.

Mark spent his morning in the local internet café and came home a couple of hours later very frustrated. The connection is just too slow for sending pictures, so we are going to have to send pictures on a CD in the regular mail to our son Justin. It will take awhile, but the pictures will get posted at some point. Mark returned to the boat just long enough to eat lunch and then he was off to Po’oina roa with his SailRite sewing machine to attempt his first canvas repair for another boat. It took all afternoon, but he was able to replace a zipper, repair damaged corners, and restitch areas where the thread had rotted in the sun. His repairs worked and he felt good that he was able to do this. Maybe he has a new career as a boat canvas maker?!!

I took a walk around the dock this morning to say good-bye to Lutana II, and then spent the rest of the day onboard editing pictures. Mid-afternoon here, our SAT phone rang. It was Mary Ellen and Lee. They arrived home last night and wondered if something was wrong since logs haven’t been posted for the past couple of days. I assured them that all is well here and that we have been sending the logs. Something went haywire with the website on Day 264 and nothing has posted since then. I hope that our son Justin will be able to get whatever it is that is wrong fixed soon. Until then, I will keep posting logs in hopes that they will get through soon.

And some great news this afternoon: Richard, the local guy who offers his services to cruisers came by to say that our autopilot part was in Papeete and would be shipped this afternoon. He should have it tomorrow and we should have a repaired autopilot no later than Friday. This is perfect timing as it looks like there may be a weather window opening up on Friday or Saturday that would allow us to take off for Rarotonga, which is about a five days sail away. We are anxious to get going now. We have seen French Polynesia and are ready to meet up with good friends Linda and Mike and their son Garrett.

Day 266: Red Sails and a Full Moon in Raiatea
Date and Time: Tuesday, July 11, 2006, 2000 Tahiti Time
Weather: Rain All Night and All Day; Weather Clearing in the Evening

Tonight we actually saw red sails as the sun set. That is the first time since June 27 that we have actually seen any color associated with a sunset. It has been too cloudy to see anything. We are also sitting here under a party cloudy sky where we can actually see the full moon once in a while. We are hoping that these are signs that the terrible weather that has settled into this area is moving on. It rained all night last night and most of today. People on the net are starting to whine. From the Tuamotus to Tahiti to here, the weather has been just awful. All we can do is ask, “Where is the beautiful weather?” We know it is not here in the South Pacific right now.

Today was a “getting ready for passage” day. Since we are on the town dock, Mark was able to simply move the boat along the dock to get us to the fuel and water. We filled all tanks and moved ourselves back to where we had come from. I went through clothes drawers and pulled out things that we are never going to use out here. We will vacuum pack and store those things. I also worked on pictures for the website. We were unsuccessful in our attempt to send those today as the internet café was closed today, same as yesterday. We have been assured that they will be open tomorrow, however, and that we will be able to begin the sending process.

Maggie Drum left today for Tahaa, but Po’oina roa, Lutana, and Cheyenne are still here with us at the town dock. It has been very windy, and as a result, very noisy here, with water lapping against the dock, but we have been safe albeit not totally comfortable. I baked bread today and made chili for dinner and for our passage to Rarotonga. Tomorrow I will do more cooking for the passage, and we will hope that our auto pilot parts get here by week’s end. We will be ready to go as soon as the parts arrive.

Here’s hoping that we awaken to a clear sky in the AM. That would be wonderful.