by Judy Handley | Jul 23, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 279, Year 1: Sunday in Rarotonga
Date: Sunday, July 23, 2006
Weather: Sun Mixed with Clouds
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
What a delightful day! We are still having days of mixed sun and clouds, sometimes with a little rain, but for the most part the weather has been great. The winds have switched to coming out of the northeast which causes the anchorage here to be very bouncy, but sometime tomorrow the winds should shift back to the southeast and things will be calm here again. We are still debating whether or not we should leave for Aitutaki in the morning or wait until Tuesday, but that decision will be in the AM when we check the wind direction. We are heading north/northeast and certainly don’t want to head out when the winds are coming from that direction. Once we get there, we will have to anchor on the outside of the reef because we are too deep to enter the lagoon there. Evidently they are filming a Survivor series there now and there are more than 400 crew on the island. Seeing this in action should be most interesting.
Linda and Michael headed out this morning on a cross-island hike. Mark drove them to the end of the road and then they hiked up to “the Needle”. This is a 413 meter spire known as Te Rua Manga. When they got to the Needle they found that there are chains bolted into the rocks that allowed them to climb up to the base but scaling the Needle would have been a very difficult climb. Linda and Michael chose the safe route and headed down the mountain to the south side of the island. Garrett, Mark, and I met them there and headed for the premier snorkeling site on the island. The coral here is basically dead but the fish life is incredible. Mark came back from snorkeling raving about the huge blue sea stars, and then Linda, Michael, and Garrett returned raving about the schools of fish they had seen. Lagoon snorkeling here is fantastic and I only hope that I will be able to do some snorkeling before we leave here.
After snorkeling we headed Maotangi Road and the trail head leading up to the top of Ikurangi (Tail of the Sky) or another that climbs to Te Manga. The hike up the Tail of the Sky is difficult but gives you a view of the whole wave-washed reef as well as the fruit and vegetable plantations. I know Linda and Michael will want to make this climb before leaving here. I know if my leg were not broken, I would certainly want to do this. We also visited the site of the Marae Arai-te-tonga-not as impressive as other maraes we have visited, but certainly a lovely spot.
We have been so busy that I have hardly mentioned the beaked whale that beached itself here and then became ill and died. That was two days ago. There is a Whale Center here that we have not visited, but it is a top priority as soon as we have time. The director, Nan Daeschler Hauser, is a PhD candidate at Southern Cross University in Australia. Other cruisers here have met her and even been invited to her home. I can’t wait to meet her and learn more about the beaked whales.
We are anchored next to the boat Linda from Helsinki, Finland. We first met Linda in Walliabou in St. Lucia. It is so much fun to meet up with people we have met previously.
So tomorrow we will either head to Aitutaki or wait until the next day and explore this island some more. Whichever will be fascinating.
by Judy Handley | Jul 22, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 278, Year 1: We’re Going to Be Grandparents
Date: Saturday, July 22, 2006
Weather: Sun Mixed with Clouds
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
Our daughter Heather just let us know that she had a healthy 12-week check-up and that we will be grandparents in late January. We can’t tell you how excited we are for Heather and Jed and how delighted we were when the news came. It means a slight change in our plans, but a change we are glad to make. We will be coming home for Christmas and staying until after the baby is born. In mid to late February, we will head back to New Zealand. I don’t want to think about how hard leaving will be, so for now, I will only think about how excited I am at the prospect of being Grandma.
Saturday is market day here. We got up and tried to listen to the weather on the Net, but in the harbor here we have very poor reception. Shortly after that, we headed to the market which is very close by. Mark dropped me and my borrowed wheel chair at the market and went to pick up the Stuart’s. We figured their luggage and the wheelchair would not both fit into the car, so that’s why I stayed behind. I had fun exploring the various booths. They sell everything from wood carvings to potatoes. In about an hour, Linda showed up and said that Mark, Michael, and Garrett had taken the luggage to the boat. Linda and I did a lot of “window” shopping, but the guys didn’t return. We decided to go ahead and purchase the fruits and veggies that we would need this week. And when we finished that, they still had not returned so we headed back to the dock. When we got there, we saw the reason for the delay. It got much windier last night than it has been, and evidently Windbird was moving closer to the dock than was comfortable. Mark had decided to reset the anchor and retie the lines holding us to shore. We had hoped to all go back and eat at the market, but by the time the lines were secured the Saturday morning market had come to an end. We ate instead a place called Fish & Chips which is right next to the dock here. Good food and great smoothies.
We spent the afternoon driving the rental car around the island and stopping at points of interest along the way. By the time we got back to the boat, it was almost time to get ready to go to Island Night at the Manuia Beach Hotel. The restaurant there is called ROB’s (Right On the Beach). We got there in time for sundown, but as has been the case for the past few weeks, there are too many clouds in the evening blocking the view of the sun going down. If we have a really clear evening, we all decided that we would go back to this spot to enjoy a beautiful sunset. The dinner buffet was very good and was a mix of local and international foods. There was traditional live music during dinner, and afterwards the dancing began. It was not the very best dancing we have seen, but we all agreed that the drumming was superb. It continually amazes us how the young men and women here can move their bodies the way they do. It is fascinating to watch.
Since it has gotten windier than we would like, and since we are getting to bed very late, we decided not to leave tomorrow for our trip to Aututaki. We will go on Monday or Tuesday, weather permitting. Mark and I will spend tomorrow checking out the weather on the internet and writing long overdue e-mails to friends and family. The Stuarts will probably spend the day hiking and then we will all get ready for our sail north.
by Judy Handley | Jul 21, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 277, Year 1: Another Beautiful Day in Paradise
Date: Friday, July 21, 2006
Weather: Sun Mixed with Clouds
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
It is hard for me to believe that this is the fourth day that we have been here in Rarotonga. I have hardly had time to even take a picture of the island, but I’m hoping to take care of that problem tomorrow. We spent this morning getting ready for the Stuarts to move aboard tomorrow, and then this afternoon we did some in town exploring in the rental car. I realize that I haven’t described the island in detail in my logs and plan to being to do that little by little, starting with today’s log.
The Avatiu Harbor is small, very small. Only six boats can tie to the quay or concrete dock, and they say another six boats can anchor in the harbor. I have a hard time imagining that, but I think we will see how many boats will really fit here during the next week as we hear on the net that boats are headed this way. Rarotonga is about half the size of Moorea as it is only 32 kilometers around the island. The mountains here are also about half as tall as those on Moorea, but in other respects, the two islands are very similar. This island is actually a little more developed, however, and parts of it feel very city-like. When you get away from the “main drag” things change and it becomes a beautiful, lush island of green. Like Tahiti, Moorea, Raitea, and Bora Bora, this island has a fringing reef. That means that it has a coral reef surrounding it with a lagoon between the reef and the island. In French Polynesia, the lagoons were deep enough for boats to navigate, but here the lagoons are very, very shallow. That has allowed the Stuarts to walk in the lagoons and get great video and still shots of fish without using an underwater camera, but it means that we cannot take our boat into the lagoon and anchor. We miss that, but will just have to make the best of what we have. We are planning to leave here on Sunday morning and sail north to another island, Aitutaki. That will give the Stuarts some sailing experience and a chance to snorkel in a deeper lagoon. We will return here on Wednesday or Thursday and get ready for the celebrations that happen here between the end of July and the fourth of August-Constitution Day.
Tomorrow morning we will go to the local Saturday morning market to pick up fresh fruits and vegetables and then go and pick up the Stuarts. They will move aboard and then we plan to hike up to a waterfall on the south side of the island. I will have to “stand watch” in the car, but I will spend my time looking at the great new reef fish identifications books that Linda brought to us.
Tomorrow night we will attend an “island night” at one of the local resorts. This includes island food followed by an island dance performance. We can’t wait to see how the performances here compare to those we have seen in French Polynesia.
Note: The two photos attached to this log are of a beaked whale that beached itself on the island and died. It’s body was recovered and was being transported to a center for autopsy when I shot the photos in town today.
by Judy Handley | Jul 20, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 276, Year 1: Happy Birthday to Michael Stuart
Date: Thursday, July 20, 2006
Weather: Sun Mixed with Clouds
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
Early this morning, Mark went to shore and rented a car. When he returned, we were getting ready to head for shore when the guy who had helped us tie up here when we arrived hailed us from shore. He was just dropping by to see how we were doing and insisted on getting his dinghy and helping me get to shore. Since this was my first trip in, it took a little exploring and planning, but we found the just right place and Richie named it “Jud’s Landing.” I can tell that I’m going to like this guy!
Once I got to shore, off we went to the outpatient clinic at the hospital. My highest hopes were that the cast could be removed today and that I would be back to normal, but I suspected that would not really be the case. When the doctor asked me very diplomatically how “young” I am, I got the point that because of age things don’t heal as quickly and that I was going to be stuck with this cast a little longer. The x-rays show that the bone is still aligned and should be healing properly. I’m to go back next Friday and if all still looks okay, he will remove the cast in such a way that I can still use it if needed on the passage to Samoa. He can basically cut it in half and it can be reapplied using ace bandages to hold it together. If it is removed on Friday, I still will not be able to put all of my weight on it for another two weeks, but that is progress.
The first doctor that I saw today was on duty just checking in patients and writing orders for what needed to be done. She immediately asked if we would be sailing to Samoa next. Most people would not know to ask that, so we inquired and she said she is originally from Samoa (what she calls the “real” Samoa, not American Samoa). Her father is a doctor and went to school at Stanford in California and she is very familiar with the US. She has two brothers that live on the west coast and she works for the World Health Organization and moves from place to place in the South Pacific. She convinced me that I need to go to the hospital in Apia on the island of Upolu in the Samoas for rehab and that we should spend extra time exploring the other Samoan islands. This is something we were already planning to do, but it was fun talking with her and learning some of the details of how things have changed there in the last 40 years. Mark lived in America Samoa for two years from 1967 to 1969 and visited some of the other Samoan islands. I know he is looking forward to the return and he did enjoy talking with the doctor this morning about some of their common knowledge of the area.
We left the hospital and started our drive around the west side of the island. There are lots of resorts, but they all fit nicely into the landscape. The island is beautiful with lush, green mountains, but the lagoon is very shallow. It has turquoise waters, but not the brilliant turquoise found in Bora Bora. We rounded the southwest corner, drove along the southern coast, and then headed back up the east coast. We stopped at Kura’s Kabanas to visit with the Stuarts and they graciously invited us to lunch. During lunch we discovered that today is Michael’s birthday and we made the decision to celebrate this over dinner. For lunch, we grilled out in the kabana by the water and then the gang put a plastic bag on my leg, hauled me into one of the kayaks, and started walking me across the lagoon. The lagoon is so shallow that you can walk across to the motus. Where fallen trees have embedded themselves in the lagoon, you can just look down and watch the fish. Incredible! The motus across the lagoon have beautiful beaches and it was simply delightful to be pulled through the water and explore. Mark, Garrett, and Michael picked up some of the numerous sea cucumbers and had squirting contests. All Linda and I could think is that “boys will be boys”. But all in all, it was a very relaxing and beautiful afternoon.
We all then piled into the rental car and started looking for a place to have a birthday dinner for Michael. We checked out a few places, and ended at the Portofino. This is an Italian restaurant owned and managed by a couple who moved here from Canada. It was a very nice evening with good food. We didn’t have desert, however, so we will do this part of the birthday ritual once Michael moves aboard Windbird on Saturday. So happy birthday, Michael.
by Judy Handley | Jul 19, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 275, Year 1: Contact with the Stuarts in Rarotonga
Date: Wednesday, July 19, 2006
Weather: Partly Cloudy
Air and Water Temperature: 77 degrees F
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
Today started with Mark heading in to see the Harbor Master and me staying aboard doing the usual cleaning at the end of a passage. Mark also spent time checking into how to best get the medical care I will need for my leg and investigated car rental possibilities. He returned just after noon, and before we had a chance to eat lunch, I heard someone calling “Judy” from the dock. It was Linda Stuart along with her husband Michael and son Garrett. It was soooooo good to hear Linda’s voice and see friends from home.
The Stuarts stayed with us all afternoon and had dinner aboard Windbird before heading back to Kura’s Kabanas where they are staying. They came on the island bus and went home that way this evening. Tomorrow morning, Mark and I are renting a car to take me to the hospital for routine blood tests and x-rays and we will then venture around to the side of the island where the Stuarts are staying. Linda and I had to promise not to talk about Concord School District “work” today, but it was very difficult not to get back to that subject. We decided that we need to find something for Michael and Mark to do so we can catch up on all of the school district gossip. I did find out that Steve Rothenberg, Concord School District Technology Coordinator, is now an Assistant Principal at the high school. I doubt that Steve reads these logs, but I have to congratulate him anyway. This is a good move for Steve and a great move on the part of the Concord School District. I know he’ll do a wonderful job. Congratulations, Steve.
We are adjusting to the harbor here. The immediate harbor is not “pretty” but we are hoping for time to explore the area more fully.
by Judy Handley | Jul 18, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 274, Year 1: Arrival in Rarotonga
Date and Time: Tuesday, July 18, 2006, 2000 Tahiti Time
Weather: Sunny and Blue Skies; Winds SW 15-20 knots
Air and Water Temperature: 77 degrees F
Latitude: 21 degrees 12 minutes South
Longitude: 159 degrees 47 minutes West
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
We made it! The last 24 hours were not easy, but we did arrive here safe and sound in the late afternoon. We sailed through a trough with driving rain, saw the skies clear, and then went into a cold front with more driving rain and changing winds. With 100 miles to go, we ended up with winds right on our nose and we had to drive the motor hard in order to get here today. We felt like we had been through it all, but then the crew from a boat that just arrived from Auckland, New Zealand came to help us anchor and told us their story. They went through much rougher weather than we have been through and have lots of repairs to do, so I guess we should be thankful that we made it through with no major problems. They said that it has been a very strange weather year in Australia and New Zealand. That certainly matches what has been happening in the whole of the South Pacific.
I feel a little bit like I am at the end of the earth here. Avatiu Harbor is the only harbor in the southern Cook Islands where a boat with a draft of more than six feet can anchor and it is a very, very tiny little harbor. I know I should be thrilled that there was a space for us here, but it is a bit of a shock compared to the beautiful anchorages we have been in for the past few months. This harbor is filled mostly with fishing boats and small cargo ships with just a small space for visiting sailboats. It is a working harbor and it is far from your picture of a perfect South Pacific anchorage. We will have to get out and explore the island a bit tomorrow to see what it is that draws people here. Sailors that have been here rave about the island, so we will have to find what it is that they are raving about.
