by Judy Handley | Aug 4, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 291, Year 1: Getting Ready for the Passage to American Samoa
Date: Friday, August 4, 2006
Weather: Rain Mixed With Occasional Sunshine
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
I don’t have much to report today. We spent the entire day getting ready for the 750 mile passage to Pago Pago (pronounced Pahngo Pahngo), American Samoa. We still are not quite ready, but no later than 10 AM tomorrow we should be on our way.
The winds have settled down some and reports indicate that we should have 15-20 knot winds from the southeast for the next few days. The key word here is “indicate”. Who knows what we will really have, but if we do have the predicted winds it will be a downwind sail. Not the best, but a lot better than some other alternatives, so we’ll be glad to take it if that is what we are given.
Mark had to make a few trips to the gas station in town today to get diesel. He took the four jerry cans in, filled them, came back, filled the tanks, and then went back for more. Together we baked bread, made salmon cakes, grilled chicken, made mashed potatoes, and a few other things to make sure we have food to eat if the passage is rough. We have learned that I just can’t cook on one leg in heavy seas, so we are prepared to eat things cold if necessary. We also did research on the Samoas and Tonga and did a little more specific planning for the next month. Our son Justin, and my niece Lynn, are thinking of visiting us in either Samoa or Tonga, and it is difficult to figure out how to best get them here. We will send them what we found out in our research today and hope that they can take it from there. We decided not to go to the final night of dance competition tonight as it was late when we finished. We still have a few details to take care of in the AM, but for the most part, we are ready for departure.
I’d like to thank Bill of s/v Compania who wrote into the website with exercise suggestions for my leg. I think the power of the internet in terms of connecting people is fantastic.
by Judy Handley | Aug 3, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 290, Year 1: Farewell to the Stuarts
Date: Thursday, August 3, 2006
Weather: Winds Up and More Rain Mixed With Occasional Sunshine
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
The good thing is that it is not raining 24 hours a day, but I think it does rain some in each of the 24. Tonight’s Mardi Gras celebration was cancelled due to the rain, and all we could think is that the clouds are raining tears of sadness because the Stuarts have to return to New Hampshire. They are at the airport right now waiting for an 11 PM flight to Tahiti and then on to Los Angeles, and finally on to New Hampshire. The weather was not as cooperative as we would have liked for their stay here, but they assured us that they had a great time despite the weather. Mike, Linda, and Garrett-We miss you already and hope you have a safe trip home.
It has been difficult the past couple of weeks with my leg out of commission. I haven’t been able to cook or clean like usual, but everyone pitched in and we made it through with flying colors. Even though I am out of the cast now, I still cannot put any weight on my foot and it is swelling more than it was in the cast. I have to keep it elevated part of every day. The knee on my good leg is starting to have problems as I have to bear all of my weight on that leg. Even with the wheel chair, the crutches, and the rental car to help out, I still have to climb in and out of the dinghy on my knees. Tomorrow morning we will have to figure out how we are going to best prepare for the passage to American Samoa. We could be leaving as early as Saturday morning and there are lot of meals to prepare between now and then.
We tried to visit the Whale Center this morning, but it was not open. We then headed downtown to do a little shopping. We wanted to buy some local music, so we went to the recommended Raro Record Shop. I wanted a particular song I had heard in French Polynesia, so Linda insisted that I hum the song to the guy in the record shop. It took him awhile, but he finally came up with the name of the song and found it on a CD for me. I found that pretty amazing. Next we went across the street to Trader Jacks. where we saw the newly carved canoes ready for launch. They were really beautiful, and although we didn’t stay for the launching, we did stay long enough to enjoy the instrumental music, drumming, and general fanfare. Mark and I went back to the boat while Mike, Linda, and Garrett went out for lunch and for a final trip to the lagoon. Garrett contracted some sort of flu bug yesterday, so they opted not to snorkel but to just walk in the shallow water and look for fish. They then returned to the boat so Garrett could rest and we could get the entire picture copying to CD’s done.
Before long, it was time to go out to dinner. We decided to go back to the Right-on-the-Beach Bar and Restaurant at Manuia Beach Hotel to enjoy the sunset and then have dinner. For dessert, we went back to The Waterline. This is where we had dinner last night. Linda liked the decadent chocolate brownie so much that her request of the day was to go back there for dessert before heading out to the airport. We did that and enjoyed the brownies and ice cream more tonight than we did last night. It was then time to get back to Windbird to pick up the luggage and go to the airport. I said my farewells on the dock and went back to the boat to leave room for all of the luggage in our little rental car.
Parting is always difficult, but we have two great weeks of memories to hold on to. Linda is returning just in time to get ready for her presentations at New Teacher Orientation. Garrett will be leaving with a friend to spend a couple of weeks in New Mexico (or Arizona?). And Michael will be back at work on Monday morning. We will be on our way to American Samoa by that time, and on to a new adventure.
by Judy Handley | Aug 2, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 289, Year l: Rarotonga Sunset
Date: Wednesday, August 2, 2006
Weather: Still Blue Skies with Rain Showers
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
What a lovely day we all had today. We got off to a bit of a slow start because we decided to fill the water tanks using borrowed hoses from a couple of different boats in order to reach Windbird from shore. The hoses were fine, but the water pressure was very low and it seemed to take forever to fill just one tank. Eventually, both tanks were full and it was then time for everyone but me to go hiking up Mount Raemaru. This mountain is 350 meters tall and has a flat top. Local legend tells a story of how warriors from Aitutaki carried the top of the mountain back to their island. When we were in Aitutaki, we saw a tiny little mountain that looks like it should be the top of Mount Raemaru. Anyway, the climb was a little more difficult than expected due to the rainy conditions recently. The rocks near the top were very slippery, but Mike, Linda, and Garrett made it. Mark stopped somewhere near the top and waited for them to come back down.
When the gang returned, I got a call on the radio from Windbird Mobile (our handheld VHF that is carried by whomever is on shore) inviting me to come to lunch. At first I declined as I was on the boat working hard to organize pictures, but then they called back and said there was a special market day today with singing and dancing, and food. That did it. I shut down the computer and Mark came over in the dinghy to get me. The Punanga Nui Marketplace is right next door, so I hopped into the wheel chair and away we went. It was great fun listening to the live music and watching some young men dressed as female dancers do a spoof on Polynesian dancing. They were very funny and after their little show, they invited audience members up to dance. Kelly and Kelly Martin from the sailboat Moorea were chosen to participate and we got a great little video of the female Kelly dancing. She was really good, so we all decided that she has been secretly practicing aboard Moorea!
When we all got back to the boat, our next door neighbor, the sailing vessel Linda from Helsinki, Finland, had just pulled up anchor and was sailing out of the harbor. That left room for Capaz, a boat from the West Coast of the USA, to move in. Todd and Julie are on Capaz with their two young sons. Garrett got to know the oldest son last night aboard Endangered Species and they, along with most males in the anchorage, spent the afternoon helping to secure Capaz and playing a little dinghy tag at the same time.
We went to a great restaurant for dinner. It is a place called The Waterline. The location, the ambiance, and the food were all terrific. It is right on the beach on the west side of the island, so you have a great sunset view through the palm trees. We all took way too many pictures and thoroughly enjoyed our meal. All too soon, it was time to get back into town to go to the evening dance competitions. This was our second time attending, and each night just gets better. There are five different kinds of dances and each island gets a chance to present each kind of dance. My favorites are the Kapa Rima and the Ura Pau. A Kapa Rima is a choreographed dance including large groups of both male and female dancers. The costumes are just phenomenal, as is the choreography. How twenty-five to thirty young women and that many young men can all move in complete harmony is beyond me, but it is wonderful to watch. The Ura Pau is dancing to drumming, and I really love the drumming. I truly enjoy each and every presentation and will be anxious to find out who wins this year’s competition.
Tomorrow is the last day aboard for the Stuarts. They fly out late tomorrow evening, so we do at least have the full day with them. They will probably go snorkeling one last time and we will head into town to do all of the things that we have just not gotten to do. We really want to visit the Whale Center, so that will be high on the agenda. Tomorrow evening is Mardi Gras in the Punanga Nui Marketplace, so that will be our last adventure together. Mark is working hard at trying to find a way to keep Garrett onboard. He is a great kid and a great crew member. It has been great fun having all of the Stuarts aboard and we will miss them.
by Judy Handley | Aug 1, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 288, Year 1: Moving About in the Anchorage
Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2006
Weather: Beautiful Blue Skies with Rain Showers Here and There
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
This will be a short log. We just returned from an evening aboard Endangered Species. Rick and Robin and John hosted the entire anchorage. We had a great time, but we are all dead tired, or at least Mark and I are. Linda claims that she and Mike and Garret are just fine, but then they did sleep on the beach today. Or maybe it is just that they are younger. Whatever, I am a short-timer tonight.
We didn’t get home until almost midnight last night and we were up early this morning. We spent the entire day moving boats about in the anchorage. We had to leave the harbor early this morning while the square-rigger, Soren Larsen, exited. We were not alone as we left the harbor. Wind Pony, O’Hona Kai, and Holokai left the harbor with us.. Once we returned, we were the second in line to anchor. But even once we were anchored and in position again, there were more moves that had to be made during the day. After about six hours, we were finally secured and hope that we don’t need to move again until we leave here this weekend.
There are more details from today that I would like to share, but that will have to be in tomorrow’s log. It is definitely time to turn in for tonight.
by Judy Handley | Jul 31, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 287, Year 1: The Road Less Traveled
Date: Monday, July 31, 2006
Weather: Beautiful Blue Skies with Rain Showers Here and There
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
The weather has definitely improved, but those north winds are still blowing into the anchorage and making it very lumpy in here. Getting on and off the dinghy is a challenge for those with two legs, so I am just barely hanging in there. But I am hanging in there. New boats have come in, so the tiny harbor is full. Early tomorrow morning the big square rigger, the Soren Larson from New Zealand will be leaving and that means that about five of us have to pull up anchor to let the boat out. It is currently tied to the concrete quay behind us, so the boats on either side of us and the two boats in front of us will move temporarily to let them out. If the harbor is still bouncy, that should be fun!
Early this morning Mark and Mike went into town to buy tickets for the dance competition and they rented the only car available.. It is a turquoise blue Cabriolet convertible. The five of us barely fit, but riding around the island with bright blue sunny skies after days of rain was just wonderful. Linda actually sat on the top of the back seat most of the day to make more room for Garrett and me and we teased her about looking like a beauty queen waving to all of her subjects. This island has a road that goes all the way around hugging the shore and then it has an inner road that weaves through the countryside. We decided to take the inner road which is less traveled. We barely got out of town when we took a little detour to check out what looked like an incredible tree. It turned out to be many trees with a vine draping over and around. When we started back down the road, we had a breathtaking view of the ocean. Then we looked to our right and saw a little house with an incredible flower and fruit garden. While we were admiring the garden, a man who was on his deck overlooking the garden called to us and invited us to come visit. His name was Harold, and he and his wife Joyce (originally from Rarotonga) moved here from New Zealand four years ago. They keep their year and a half old grandson, Alexius, during the day, so we visited with the three of them and ate the fantastic passion fruit and banana that Joyce served us. Harold is very proud of his garden and took everyone for a guided tour. It was a wonderful visit and we even learned about the Mile-a-Minute Vine that covers the trees and drapes gracefully to the ground.
We then continued on the inner road around the island. This road was built a thousand years ago with oyster shells and has the distinction of being the oldest road in Polynesia. It was paved during World War II and has remained that way since. It is a charming country road with incredible scenery. We exited the road at the southeastern end of the island and slowly made our way to our favorite snorkeling spot. We stopped at local art galleries and took side roads to look for great viewpoints. At one stop we met Piri. We have read signs about his afternoon shows since we arrived here. He climbs straight up coconut trees and does a demonstration of how his ancestors made fire from the coconut. I thought he would be a young man, but he is actually about our age. Once again, he reinforced the impression of the friendliness of people here. It is truly heartwarming.
The day was moving right along, so we finally headed straight to the snorkeling spot. All of the wind and heavy seas have caused the visibility in the lagoon to be less than stellar, so I decided not to try my first snorkeling event after breaking my leg. I sat on the beach in the sun and thoroughly enjoyed the afternoon. Mark gave up sooner than usual and joined me. Mike, Linda, and Garrett stayed out but they didn’t see much today and they had to fight a wicked current on the way back to the beach. As we walked back to the car, we spotted a heron sitting on a rock overlooking the lagoon. It was a Kodak moment, but no one had a camera. By the time the cameras were located, the heron flew away, but we have beautiful memories of the moment, with or without the perfect photograph.
We ended the day by attending the first night of Te Maeva Nui dance competition. We so enjoyed the dancing in Bora Bora, but I think the Cook Islanders live up to their reputation as the best dancers in the South Pacific. We might not attend tomorrow night as Rick, Robin, and John on Endangered Species have invited everyone in the anchorage over for an early evening get-together, but we will definitely go back on Wednesday evening. The singing, drumming, and dancing was spectacular and we still just don’t understand how people can move the way they do. The female dancers here very good, but I must say that I have been most impressed with the enthusiastic knee-slapping male dancing. It is incredible!
by Judy Handley | Jul 30, 2006 | Rarotonga, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 286, Year 1: A Little Break in the Weather
Date: Sunday, July 30, 2006
Weather: Downpour All Morning, Clearing Skies in the Afternoon
Location: Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
It looks like the weather is improving. For that we are all very thankful. About 3 AM the north winds starting blowing into the harbor, but they were not as strong as predicted. In the morning, we sat in the cockpit and watched the pouring rain, thunder and lightening, and the black clouds of the front pass over Rarotonga and out to sea. It took a couple of hours, but we finally started to see patches of blue. It has been raining here day and night since last Monday, so any patch of blue is most welcome. We made it all evening with no rain, but it is raining as I write this log. Hopefully, it will clear by morning.
We spent a bit of a lazy day aboard Windbird. Linda and I worked on getting pictures ready for the website while Mike and Garrett cleaned the topsides of the boat. Wow! What a nice gift that was for Mark and I. Mark helped with the cleaning of the boat and took the dinghy around the harbor visiting some of the other boats. White Swan with Bod and Diane aboard came into the harbor this morning. I had asked them to buy a copy of the DVD of Bora Bora’s Heiva Festival 2005 for me and they delivered that today. We saw them in Raiatea after we had left Bora Bora and they were on their way there, so they offered to get the DVD for me that I had forgotten to buy before we left Bora Bora.
We went back to Trader Jack’s for a pizza dinner and then to the National Auditorium for a night of Polynesian singing. Many of the cruisers that are currently in the harbor were at Trader Jack’s tonight. The entertainment choices tonight were to go to the Empire Theater to see The DaVinci Code or to go to the singing competitions as part of the festival. John from Endangered Species went to the singing competitions with us while the rest of the gang went to the movie. Many people are not interested in the singing, but I really love it. The Te Maeva Nui Festival here is now in full swing, so we will be going to the auditorium each night for singing and dance competitions. I feel blessed to be able to be here to see the celebration of South Pacific culture and hope to take in as much as I can.
