by Judy Handley | Sep 3, 2006 | American Samoa, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 321, Year 1: Getting Together With Friends
Date: Sunday, September 3, 2006
Weather: Rain All Night and All Day . . . until 4 pm
Location: Pago Pago Harbor, Tutuila Island, American Samoa
It has become apparent why Somerset Maugham wrote the novel “Rain”. When it rains here, it really rains, sometimes for days. The Convergence Zone has been sitting on top of the Samoas for a few days causing rain, rain, and more rain. I now know the real meaning of raining “cats and dogs”. It did clear this afternoon, just in time for us to go ashore and pick up guests, and it has not rained since. If it doesn’t rain during the night, then I think we can safely say that the Convergence Zone has moved north again-where it belongs! And I sure hope it stays there for the next couple of weeks.
There are four boats that are captained by single-handers at anchor here now. Two just arrived yesterday, and this morning one of those boats called all of the others to invite them over for sundowners (drinks at sun down) at 1 pm. When one of the others responded by saying that they didn’t think 1 pm was the right time for sundowners, the other boat replied that since the sun had not come up today, sundowners could be had at anytime! I don’t think we saw the sun yesterday at all, and did not see it again today. Hopefully tomorrow will bring a return of some sunshine. We had invited our friend Evelyn out for sundowners today, and at least we didn’t have rain. She brought a friend named Terri with her. Terri has been here for about 21 years and runs a travel agency. We also invited Penny and Greg from Long Tall Sally over. Evelyn and Terri brought oka (marinated raw fish) with them, so we had a pre-dinner feast. Before dark we headed into Evalina’s for a Sunday night Mexican dinner and a movie. It was great fun and a nice diversion from the rain. Let’s just hope the rain doesn’t return.
Tomorrow is Labor Day, so it will be another quiet day. Stores won’t be open and the busses will not run, so we will probably spend the day on the boat making plans for our departure from here and also coming up with a sailing plan once we leave Apia in independent Samoa. The rest of the week will be very busy. There are still so many things we want to see here and we have lots of shopping to do in order to reprovision for the rest of the cruising season. “So much time and so little to do . . .Strike that. Reverse it” – Willie Wonka of Chocolate Factory Fame.
by Judy Handley | Sep 2, 2006 | American Samoa, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 320, Year 1: Getting to Know Micah and Faaiuga
Date: Saturday, September 2, 2006
Weather: Rain Most of the Night, Rain Most of the Day
Location: Pago Pago Harbor, Tutuila Island, American Samoa
Despite the weather, we had an absolutely fantastic day. We realized this morning that Monday is Labor Day and a holiday here in American Samoa, so Mark headed to the store to buy a few things. I stayed on the boat and sanded and varnished those Dorade boxes . . . again. Everything was made more difficult because of the rain, but we managed to get our jobs done and get back into town by 1:00 to meet Micah and his wife, Faaiuga. We met Micah, who I think is originally from California, at the American Samoa Community College when we were searching for a film Mark had done when he was here in the 1960’s. Micah is interested in sailing to Apia with us and we invited him to come to see the boat and to bring his wife. We thought we were going to be hosting them, but that got turned around. They picked us up at the dock and took us across the mountain to the village of Vatia. We stopped at the National Park fale on the way there and had a fantastic lunch that Micah and Faaiuga had prepared. We had baked taro root and baked breadfruit with fresh yellow fin tuna oka (raw fish marinated in coconut crè¥ and onion), and another coconut crè¥ and onion liquid “dip” with a bit of hot pepper. It was all absolutely delicious and made more so by the fact that they had made the coconut crè¥ themselves. You evidently grate the coconut and squeeze it into a liquid. It is delicious. What a wonderful lunch in a beautiful place. And we saw a new bird while we were sitting in the fale. It looked a little like a blue jay with a long beak like a kingfisher. I’ll have to find out the name of this bird.
We went on to visit the village of Vatia. We had driven to what we thought was the end of the road last week, but Micah spent a few days in the village at one time and knew the road continued. We drove further, walked out a path, and had a wonderful, close-up view of Cockscomb Point (The Pola) and all of the rock arches at its base. We also learned more about traditional Samoan life from both Micah and Faaiuga.
It rained while we were having lunch in the fale, and then rained again on our way back into Pago Pago. We had to wait in the car for the wind and rain to subside before getting into the dinghy and heading out to Windbird. We were all so stuffed from the great lunch that we couldn’t eat another thing, so we had some cool drinks and enjoyed being in our protected cockpit while the rains came again. Mark gave Micah and Faaiuga a tour of the boat and then we just sat in the cockpit and got to know each other a little better. Micah and Faaiuga have three children: Jacob who is almost 8, Joshua who is 5, and Patricia who is 2 years old. Faaiuga made sure to note that the family also includes seven chickens and one cat named Sina! Faaiuga is from Sili, Savaii in independent Samoa and moved here to American Samoa with Micah about eight years ago. Micah did a bit of sailing in the South Pacific when he was in his twenties and is very interested in sailing to Apia with us. If the weather coincides with his schedule, I think he will be doing that. We are going to have dinner at the Van der Ryn home on Wednesday and finalize plans for our sail to the other Samoa at that time. We had a wonderful time today, thoroughly enjoyed Faaiuga’s great sense of humor, and Micah’s willingness to share his knowledge of the culture here. They are a great couple and we look forward to seeing them again on Wednesday.
Mark barely got our guests back to shore before the rains started again. It is pouring right now and probably will all night. I’d sure like to see a sunny day tomorrow.
by Judy Handley | Sep 1, 2006 | American Samoa, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 319, Year 1: A Quiet Day on Windbird
Date: Friday, September 1, 2006
Weather: Rain All Night, Rain All Day
Location: Pago Pago Harbor, Tutuila Island, American Samoa
Our beautiful day yesterday ended with a stormy night. The southeast winds have returned and they are about 20 knots strong here in the anchorage. That causes a bit of a chop. No problem here on the boat, but going to shore against the wind can be a wet ride. Mark started his day fixing the pump that empties our shower. I sanded and varnished the Dorade boxes, coat #9, and ventured out on deck to scrub the various cushions we use in the cockpit to make ourselves comfortable. Mark went into town to call Samoa Telecom yet another time about our internet connection that is mostly down, but works sometimes. This time he was successful and the connection worked . . . a little while. Then it was down again and Mark went back to town. This time he also went to the grocery store and to a couple of hardware stores to find the grade of sandpaper I need to continue my varnishing. I think Mark really likes racing that dinghy in and out of town, but he assures me that these trips are necessary!
We were going to go to the Yacht Club for Happy Hour tonight, but the weather was still so windy and rainy that we decided to have a quiet night on Windbird. I did a lot of cooking, using up some of the things in the freezer that have been there just a little too long. We will eat well the next couple of days, and early next week we will fill the freezer with goodies that should take us through to New Zealand.
There are still so many things we want to do here, but our time is starting to run short. We have to be in Apia no later than Tuesday, September 12, and that means that we have to be ready to leave here by next Thursday, September 7. It is only an overnight sail to Apia, but with the kind of weather we have been experiencing, we might have to leave as early as Thursday if the weather is right. If there is a long range prediction of calm weather, then we will wait and leave on Saturday or Sunday. Our son Justin and my niece Lynn arrive there early on Wednesday, so we would like to get there and have a day or two to get settled in before they arrive.
Tomorrow we have invited Micah Van der Ryn, head of Samoan-Polynesian Studies at the Community College, and his wife, to visit us aboard Windbird. They have also offered to take us across the mountain to the village of Vatia for an explore. We have been there once, but it is our favorite place on the island and we look forward to going again. Hopefully the weather will clear for our visit and exploration.
by Judy Handley | Aug 31, 2006 | American Samoa, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 318, Year 1: A Trip Aunu’u Island
Date: Thursday, August 31, 2006
Weather: Beautiful Day!
Location: Pago Pago Harbor, Tutuila Island, American Samoa
Today we traveled to Aunu’u Island via bus and water ferry. The island is just a couple of miles off-shore and it is lovely. I’ll get back to telling you more about today’s adventure once I give you a little up-date on my broken leg.
A couple of days ago we got an e-mail from a fellow Concord Yacht Club member who is also an orthopedic surgeon. He has been following our daily log entries and e-mailed to ask if I would like another opinion on how to deal with the rehabilitation period. He asked us to take digital pictures of all of my x-rays (from Tahiti, Raiatea, Rarotonga, and American Samoa-quite an impressive photo gallery) and send them to him as e-mail attachments. We did that, and he got back to me ASAP letting me know that my fracture is a pretty common laterial malleolus or distal fibula break and that it is fairly stable. It was good to know that the break is fairly common stable. Until now, all I knew was that I broke my fibula-no details. I immediately started feeling more confident. And then he added that the reason the fracture line looks worse to me now than it did earlier is simply because of disuse, the same kind of thing that happens to the astronauts. He assured me that things will start getting better as soon as I start bearing weight on the leg and using it. So I have done just that. Paul Urbanek–you are my new hero. Thank you so much.
Paul did caution me that I should not bear full weight at first without something to support the ankle area. And my friend Linda Stuart was already anticipating that need and has sent a borrowed aircast to me here. A fellow teacher, Chris LeBrun, had an aircast and was willing to send it to me on loan. That should arrive next week and give me the support I need for longer walks. I walked a good half mile or more today with only an ace bandage and the crutches as support, but I was very, very careful. I am just so excited that I can really start using the leg. I just wasn’t confident with the advice I had gotten from the doctor here, but now with a second opinion, I’m off and running . . . well, walking for now. Thanks to Linda and Chris was getting that aircast to me. I can’t wait until it arrives.
Now back to Aunu’u Island. We went with Glenda and Derek from Scotty. We hopped on an aiga bus and rode much of the way around the island to the east–for only $1.00 each. Then we got on the water ferry which took us across to the island. Getting on the ferry was a little tricky with my leg, but the people here are so very, very helpful. The ferry pilot basically lifted me across from the dock to the bouncing ferry and off we went. This ferry ride only cost $2.00 per person. Getting off on the island dock was much easier as the anchorage there was not getting the pounding surf from the southeast. We walked up the dock and met Joshua. He lives in the house right in front of you as you get off the dock and he gave us some good advice about how to explore. He assured me that I was not really going to walk all the way around the island, but he showed us the best way to go so that I could do some walking. I walked to the end of the village, but then decided it was time for me to start back. I assured everyone that I would be fine walking back to the dock on my own, so Mark, Derek, and Glenda continued on without me. I made the quarter or so mile back to the harbor area with no problem and even made a side trip off the path to a sandy beach. I decided it was not a good idea for me to walk further in the sand, however, and got back on the path. When I got back to the harbor area, Joshua and I talked for quite a while. He was born in Apia in Independent Samoa, and grew up between there and American Samoa. People here move back and forth between the islands just like people in the US move from state to state. He then went into the US Army and spent time in the United States and serving abroad. He most recently lived in Hawaii, where all of his children live, but after the death of both of his parents, he has returned to Aunu’u to look after his mother’s family land. After talking with Joshua for quite a while, I headed down the sidewalk to the village store. It was almost as far as I had walked to the end of the village! I really just wanted to see the village, so going to the store was my excuse. There are almost no vehicles on this island (only a van that serves as a school bus and couple of utility trucks) and no real roads. Yet people live in concrete block homes and they have electricity and plumbing. The store had only a few cold drinks, some cookies, and cans of Spam, so I assume people do most of their shopping on the main island.
After Mark, Derek, and Glenda returned from their island walk, we went down to the beach to cool off in the pounding surf. Mark and Glenda went in first, but the waves were so big and the undertow so strong, that I just stood in shallow water and let the surf flow in and out. Unfortunately the surf brought in large hunks of coral, and I had to block those from hitting my ankle with my crutch. Mark and Glenda just sat in the surf and let it cool them off. It was then time to return to the main island. Getting on the ferry was easy, but when we returned to the main island dock, the tide was lower and the waves were surging. A young man on the ferry carried me across and I made the landing safe and sound.
It was a beautiful day and we all really enjoyed our trip to Aunu’u. It was such a quiet, pristine village and we felt lucky to be able to make this visit.
by Judy Handley | Aug 30, 2006 | American Samoa, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 317, Year 1: Tisa’s Barefoot Beach Bar
Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2006
Weather: Beautiful Day (in between early am and late pm showers)
Location: Pago Pago Harbor, Tutuila Island, American Samoa
I have been a day ahead of myself since last Friday. Somehow I skipped August 25 in the logs. Sorry about that. So yesterday was Tuesday, just not August 30, as I wrote. Today is Wednesday, August 30, or at least I think it is, and it has been a busy, busy day.
I spend the first hour of each day sanding and varnishing the Dorade boxes. I’m on coat #9, but I need to get to #15, so I still have a few days of varnishing to go. I also worked on cleaning and polishing the stainless on the boat. Mark hauled water from shore, went to the internet café ´o check e-mail, and worked on the pump that rids our shower stall of water. By the time all of this was done, it was time to head to Tisa’s Barefoot Beach Bar for a swim and for dinner. Unfortunately, the late afternoon rain happened just as we left for Tisa’s and continued once we got there. We made the decision not to swim and snorkel in the rain, but we did have a great walk on the beach. Penny and Greg from Long Tall Sally and Barbara and George from Gdansk went with us to Tisa’s and we had a wonderful evening. The food was fantastic and the company was great. We got to see the “flying foxes” of American Samoa (actually these are fruit bats) and we saw whales blowing in the distance. Great evening!
by Judy Handley | Aug 29, 2006 | American Samoa, Sailing Logs Year 1 |
Day 316, Year 1: Internet Connection is Lost
Date: Tuesday, August 29, 2006
Weather: On and Off Rain All Day
Location: Pago Pago Harbor, Tutuila Island, American Samoa
Our biggest struggle right now is getting e-mails to send and receive. Because we are in a harbor with mountains on all sides, it is difficult to send and receive on our HAM radio e-mail system. It seems like our only window is 7:00 to 9:00 in the evening, and we are often not home at that time. Figuring out radio wave propagation is really tricky and we are just beginning to understand. High speed internet we understand, but the signal here comes and goes. So some days we have a great connection and then we can go two or three days with no connection. I guess we just need to learn to take advantage of the good times and chill until the good times return. So if our communications are a few days delayed, don’t despair.
I spent my day sanding and varnishing, doing laundry onboard, and writing a few e-mails. Mark went to town early with Penny and Greg from Long Tall Sally. They needed to find a radio repair shop and Mark needed to go to the hospital to pick up copies of my x-rays. Both needed to check in with Origon at Samoa Telecommunications to figure out our internet connections problems. Mark then spent a great deal of time with Penny trying to download some software. Mark and I spent our evening with Glenda and Derek on Scotty. They are from Adelaide, Australia, and we really enjoyed our time getting to know them.
Tomorrow is a “clean the waterline” day and then we are off to Tisa’s Barefoot Bar for swimming, snorkeling, and then a traditional Samoan dinner. Penny and Greg from Long Tall Sally and George and Barbara from Gdansk will join us. Our friend Evelyn is also coming, so it should be a great evening.
I want to thank Bill of S/V Compania for his constant vigilance over my broken leg. His recommendations as a physican/physical therapist have been greatly appreciated. And the neatest thing is that we only know him through his contacting us on our website. Today, he and his wife are headed for Florida. Their boat, Compania, is going back in the water this week and by mid-November they will leave for the Rio Dulce. Even though we have never met, we are very excited for them and hope to track their journey via the internet.
